Paint Recipe Book.

Discover the age-old techniques of painting...

Moderators: Layne, xFallenx, cultofkhaine

Forum rules
Remember that picture file size should be no larger than 256KB.
For the full Painting and Modelling rules, visit [url]http://www.druchii.net/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=27440[/url]
Post Reply
User avatar
xFallenx
Malekith's Best Friend
Posts: 1255
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:04 am
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Contact:

Paint Recipe Book.

Post by xFallenx »

The intent of this recipe book is to showcase & inspire the painting of our tabletop armies. We at Druchii.net are fortunate to have a collection of amazing painters and converters within our midst. This collection of recipes, hand-picked by each artist, represent paint techniques they are particularly proud of & laid out in such a way so that we, as new or experienced hobbyists, are able to apply & modify to our own models.

Please note that comments not directly associated to submission entries will be purged in order to keep the recipe book free of clutter, thank-you for your understanding.

Table of Contents: (W.I.P)
Skin:
NMM: Mango Punch’s “Blue Steel” NMM
Fabrics:
Units:
Har Ganeth Executioners (Painted by Zlatan)
Rules for submission: Submissions can be sent to Cult of Khaine or myself in the following format:

Ingredients: This includes all paint/wash/glaze names & brands.
Description: Some quick words to describe the project & or inspiration to the model/unit chosen for the recipe book.
Recipe: Step by step breakdown with photos, following the forums photo’s requirements, breaking down the technique.
User avatar
xFallenx
Malekith's Best Friend
Posts: 1255
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:04 am
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Contact:

Zlatan's Har Ganeth Executioners

Post by xFallenx »

Zlatan's Har Ganeth Executioners

Ingredients:
(All GW Paints or Equivalent)
Rhinox Hide
Leadbelcher
Runefang Steel
Naggaroth Night
Xereus Purple
Genestealer Purple
Khorne Red
Mephiston Red
Trollslayer Orange
Firedragon Bright
Bugman's Glow
Brass Scorpion
Auric Armour Gold


Washes (also all GW) -

Nuln Oil
Agrax Earthshade
Carroburg Crimson


Cooking Time: Around 1 hour to 2 hours, depending on painting speed.
This is a quick and effective way I've found to paint quickly to a fair tabletop standard.


Step 1 - Undercoat

Image

I undercoated the model in GW Rhinox Hide. I find it gives great coverage straight over bare plastic and other paints go onto it really well - especially metallics. It also gives quite a nice natural shadow effect. It's best to use 2 thin coats to avoid obscuring any detail (I use a roughly 3/1 paint-water mix). Diluting also helps it get into hard to reach areas easier. I used a GW large brush.

Step 2 - Metal Basecoat

Image

Take a medium metallic silver - I used GW Leadbealcher paint. Dip the large brush in the paint and wipe it off a few times on some absorbent paper. You're aiming for a very, very heavy drybrush effect here (I call it "Wetbrushing - I'll be using this term again later :D ), so the brush should still leave visible streaks on the paper, but be far from "drippy". Do NOT dilute the paint! Slather it all over the model - there's no need to be careful at this stage. If you've got the amount of paint right, there should still be the Rhinox Hide shading in the recesses and everything else should be a nice uniform silver colour.
Finish off this stage by painting the face with GW Bugman's Glow. No need to be careful yet - you'll go over any mistakes later.

Step 3 - Purple Basecoat and Wash

Image
Image

Paint the cloak, belt (don't forget the dangling bits at the side of the model), and cloth parts of the sleeves with GW Naggaroth Night. Then wash the entire model with GW Nuln Oil (make sure you shake the pot well first to avoid a shiny finish when it dries. Once you've coated the model in Nuln Oil, take the tip of your large brush and stick it into the recesses around the face (e.g. the eyes). This will help absorb excess Nuln Oil wash which has run into this area and is obscuring the flesh tone beneath.

Step 4 - Red Basecoat

Image

Wait for the wash to completely dry, then basecoat the trim around the chainmail skirt and the plume on the helmet in Khorne Red.


Step 5 - First Highlights, red and purple.

Image

Use a GW detail brush and "wetbrush" (see above) GW Troll Slayer Orange, or any brightish medium orange, over the hairs on the plume. Then highlight the raised areas of the trim around the chainmail skirt in GW Mephiston Red. Don't worry about being too neat with the drybrushing - you'll notice I got some orange on the helmet at this stage - you can tidy up later.
Take a small brush (e.g. a GW Detail Brush) and drybrush a bright orange like GW Firedragon Bright onto the raised areas of the plume. Then do a very thin line of this colour along the top edge of the red trim on the skirt, and on the front edge of the overlapping part of the skirt.
For the purple, I used the large brush again. Make sure you have a fine tip and paint GW Xereus Purple onto the raised areas of the cloak. This is one of my favorite layer paints - it is quite thin out of the pot, so no need to dilute it much. I load the brush and paint on quick thick streaks onto the raised folds of the cloak. Then, before allowing it to dry, gently feather out the paint to create a wider slightly translucent highlight on all but the deep recesses. It should look like this:

Image

Once this is dry, paint a second coat of Xereus Purple onto the raised areas only. Follow this up with a final highlight of GW Genestealer Purple on the highest creases.
Don't forget the sleeves and the belt flaps too.

Step 6 - Silver Highlights

Image

First of all, correct any mistakes from earlier on the metal armour areas by repainting with leadbelcher. Then take a GW detail brush and paint a light silver like GW Runefang Steel onto the raised areas of the armour. This includes the skirt, the top ridges of the feet, and the helmet. Make sure you go over any flesh tone from earlier which spilled over onto the helmet at this stage. Then, using the same brush, highlight the very edges of the sword. Try to be as neat as you can, but remember that the sword will be caked in blood later, which will cover up any slight wobbles.

Step 7 - Gold Basecoat

Image

Basecoat the brass areas with a dark gold/bronze colour. These areas are: The loin guard, leg guards, pommel of the sword, hilt of the sword (leave the skull in the centre of the hilt silver), the raised areas on the breastplate and shoulder guards, and the mini horns on the side of the helmet. GW Balthasar Gold is good, but I prefer GW Brass Scorpion. Even though it's a layer paint, I find it gives much better coverage over silver than Balthasar Gold. As with all GW metallics, make sure you really shake the pot thoroughly first to get a good consistency.

Step 8 - Washes #2

Image

Now I washed the red areas with GW Carroburg Crimson, and the gold areas with GW Agrax Earthshade. Unlike the previous wash, you need to be a bit more careful here only to get the washes onto the right areas. I used a GW standard Brush for this.

Step 9 - Blood

Image


While waiting for those washes to dry, take some GW Blood for the Blood God or Tamiya Clear Red, and streak it over the edge of the blade. For the most realistic effect, first flick the brush lightly over the edge, making sure your flicks go in the direction of the blood splatter (from the leading edge of the blade diagonally down towards the back of the blade in this case). Once this is dry, I blobbed on some thick gloopy blobs towards the top part of the blade edge.

Step 10 - Red and Gold Highlights

Image

Once the washes are dry, I did another light drybrush of GW Firedragon Bright over the very edges of the plume. I then painted the edges of the gold parts with GW Auric Armour Gold. Make sure you move the model around a bit as you do this. Even if you shake it, the paint is very thin and sometimes it's hard to see where you've already applied it unless the light hits it in the right way. Once this is dry, do a final highlight of GW Runefang Steel over the outer edges of the gold armour, and the tips of the horns. Hold the model under a strong light source and see how the light naturally reflects. Put the silver on these areas.

Step 11 - Gloves

Image


To finish off, paint the gloves with GW Rhinox Hide, and then give a single highlight of GW Xv-88 along the raised areas.

Unit Shot:

Image


Here's a small unit of ten painted in this way. I gave them a red banner with cream trim to tie it in with the plumes and the gold parts of the shoulder blades. It was highlighted in the same way as the trim on the executioners. The design is the rune of Khaine from the GW Transfer sheet which came with the executioners.
Oct 2013-Current: 3-2-0
User avatar
xFallenx
Malekith's Best Friend
Posts: 1255
Joined: Fri Sep 22, 2006 1:04 am
Location: Calgary, Alberta
Contact:

Mango Punch’s “Blue Steel” NMM

Post by xFallenx »

Mango Punch’s “Blue Steel” NMM

Image

Required Ingredients: Citadel The Fang, Fenrisian Grey and White Scar; Water
Optional Ingredients: Citadel Nuln Oil, Diluting Solution

Description: This is a fairly simple way to paint an effective NMM. It can be used for weapons, armor, and embellishments. In this recipe I try and go into a good amount of detail on the step by step, as well as some tips for modifying it. The process takes me about 45 minutes but can be made materially longer or slower depending on your natural pace and the number of layers you apply (the above has 25-30).

Recipe:
1) Choose Your Palette: The Fang, Fenrisian Grey, White Scar
What is important about these paint choices is that each highlight is less saturated with blue than the one before. Saturation is the amount of pigment, or vividness of color in your paint. If you try to highlight up into a higher saturation (say Eshin Grey into Hoeth Blue) it will be much harder to make look right. If you want to change the colors keep saturation in mind, for instance for a darker steelier look you could use a combination of The Fang and Abaddon black as your base and mix each subsequent shade less saturated then the previous. Here are the shades I used:

Image

2) Choose Where to Highlight: On A Sword Where One Part is Light the Other Side is Dark / NMM Highlights are Always Wrong
Normal materials diffuse light, meaning that no matter what angle you are at, the parts that receive more light will look brighter or lighter. Metallic Objects, reflect light, meaning that the “bright spots” are the angles that reflect the light source to where you happen to be viewing from... THerefore any highlight you select will be ‘right’ from one angle, but wrong from every single other angle – for proof, walk around the next shiny thing you see and watch as the ‘highlight’ changes. You could agonize over this, or you could just choose a reasonable angle to highlight and be consistent throughout. For this model I chose the upper right and lower left of the sword, as if we were viewing it from slightly to the left, and the light source is behind us to the right. A fun trick with swords is that where two edges meet, if one side is light the other is dark, and vice versa. this makes it a lot easier to choose where to put highlights and low lights (once you pick one spot for a highlight the rest is dictated for you).

3) Base Coat The Fang and Optional Nuln Oil Wash in Crevices
If you choose to wash with Nuln Oil, remember, this will de-saturate (see above) your base coat, so only do it in truly light starved areas (like the eyes on the sculls on my master).
Image

4) Begin Building Layers from The Fang to a 50/50 Mix with Fenrisian Grey
Mix a little itsy bit of Fenresian Grey in with your The Fang, and paint all but what will ultimately be the darkest parts of the metal. See below after one of the early layers.

Image

While applying layers, it is important to keep in mind the thickness of your paint. I dilute mine (water works) so that it is a semi transparent ‘milky’ consistency. See it below a few shades in on my thumbnail:

Image

Continue with this process, with each coat covering slightly less than the coat before until you reach a 50/50 mix of The Fang and Fenresian Grey:

Image

5) Build Layers Mixing in White Scar
Continue doing the same thing as before, but mixing With Scar in with your 50/50 The Fang and Fenresian Grey Mix. Continue with each diluted layer covering slightly less than the one before until your metal looks something like this:

Image

6) OPTIONAL: Glaze
As you get closer to the final stages, you might realize that your layers aren’t completely even or neat. To smooth out the transitions you can use a technique called glazing (very good painters could do the entire NMM effect with just glazes, I’m not that good). It’s actually a pretty straightforward process, dilute down one of your darker tones to 2x-3x as diluted as you are using your normal layers (so it’s very see-through-y), apply some of the diluted liquid to a darker area and then drag your brush into the lighter shades. Repeat with a light color, dragging into the darker shades. And repeat, until you are happy. Since your paint is so diluted, if you mess up a little it shouldn’t show, and this is a great way to smooth out minor mistakes. At the end of this optional step, your metal should look like this:

Image

7) Continue Highlighting to Your Highest Highlights (almost white):
Pretty straightforward, keep on doing what you were doing until you get to a near white:

Image
Oct 2013-Current: 3-2-0
Post Reply